When It's Time To Put Your Dog To Sleep – The Swatch Group is almost solely responsible for keeping many of today’s famous Swiss brands alive in the scary and scary times of the quartz crisis. Longines is one of these brands, a manufacturer with a storied past of creating world firsts and equipping the wrists of people who do good research. Famous especially for its chronograph expertise, the brand was positioned as a mid-range luxury offering when its owner ASUAG merged with SSIH in 1983, the two becoming the Swatch Group five years later. Recently, however, we have seen new Longines models positioned in a higher price range, directly targeting the vintage-inspired sports watch trend that seems to be all the rage in last decade or so, the Spirit collection was the standard. in this effort. Enter the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, a true GMT with a size of 39mm to fit a variety of wrists. I’ve had the pleasure of spending the last few weeks with it on my wrist, and I’ve learned how the Longines competes at the increasingly $6,000 price point.
Isn’t it lonely? The combination of the brown ceramic bezel insert and studded gold accents throughout complement the symmetrical anthracite brown dial beautifully, especially when you look at the details closer. Although it is a sports watch, the polished highlights are good without being excessive, Longines has managed to use them sparingly and only emphasize the lines of the case. Where they can be excluded is on the outermost plane of the bracelet links, as this is the area most likely to get scratches, even if they are not visible.
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The typography is dominated by subtle vintage-style numbers on the bezel and dial, and the latter lends a beautiful depth thanks to the applied shape and raised edges that feel proud of the filling. I have always criticized the use of fauxtina, although Longines has also shown an exercise in moderation, going for a subtle creamy light to accompany the gold dials. All the hands are illuminated, and the readability after dark is very good considering the usual light leakage when choosing a fauxtina. Simple pencil hands are tasked with telling the time, while the running seconds have a luminous tube on one, and a large counterweight on the other. The GMT hand is black at its base, which gives the polished gold top a floating appearance, reaching the vertical flange. A touch I particularly like is the date wheel, which is not only the color of the dial, but also sports rose gold printing for the numbers. A small drawback that plagues many modern watches is the dial. Spirit Zulu Time sports no less than six lines of text, including the winged hourglass logo and five stars – I want to see the
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Zulu Time Spirit is up against some established favorites at its price, which means it should do just as well, if not better. Where it really stands out is the case, which measures 39 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 13.5 mm. Sure, it could be slimmed down by a millimeter or two, which would certainly give it better dimensions, but considering it as such, it’s more wearable than any Tudor GMT, especially my smaller one. on average pulses. .
Another important aspect to consider in terms of fit is the cuff. It ranges from 21mm to 16mm at the tip, and is completely solid in construction. Due to the aggressive taper, the head of the watch can feel a bit heavy at the top, so I chose to wear it safely, instead of leaving some breathing room. The end links are also very well integrated into the case, although note the long but curved male end links which increase the effective lug-to-lug to almost 50mm – almost in the comfort zone of my 6.15in (15.5 cm) pulses.
There’s no doubt about it – the brand’s intention was clear when the Spirit was launched, and confirmed by the latest Hydroconquest GMT, which happens to have the same movement as the Zulu Time. The details are a step above what we’re used to seeing from Longines. My favorites are probably the diamond hour markers that cut the stepped rehaut and its beveled edge – little touches that make the dial even more interesting. Instead of wearing black, which looks pretty cool, Longines chose a brown ceramic bezel insert – which looks great.
Although not on display, the caliber L844.4 is an impressive performer, with a silicone balance, COSC certification and a 72-hour power reserve – details that bring it into motion. The L844.4 is a Longines exclusive, based on the ETA A31.411, which in turn is a derivative of the ETA 2892-A2 – although it is not in favor – if you read my Questions about the time, you should notice. . that I am so tired of all the debates at home.
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While the finish of the case and the movement may echo Longines being part of the less accessible but more refined crowd, I was disappointed to see a fairly standard stop. Don’t get me wrong, the finish is great, there’s a lot of micro-adjustability and the quick release spring bars on the bracelet are easy to use, but the price is close to $7,000 for this two-tone variant. it screams for a system that doesn’t use micro-adjustment.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time evoked a significant internal conflict in me even after the (relatively) short time I spent wearing it. I’m glad that Longines seems to have (finally) been given the green light by the Swatch Group to become something more than a substantial value proposition, even if it means that the days of cheap pieces of Longines Heritage Classic can be counted. However, none of these factors are reflected in the watch itself. In fact, the specs are amazing, and so is the overall wearable experience. Do I wish some things were different? Sure – a solid gold bezel and crown would make it more attractive than a Black Bay GMT S&G (which also has gold components for almost $2,000 more), and I’d kill for an in-flight mic. – adjust
In short – there are some watches that I carefully take out every morning, after thinking for a long time about what to wear for the day. The Age of the Zulu Spirit, however, is
A watch that showed my wrist that morning when the time was important, took it from the bedside table and was simply a delicious wrist accessory throughout the day. That’s as good a sign of a good everyday wearer as any in my book.
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The Longines Spirit Zulu Time is now available from Longines. Price: A$6,675 (cloth or leather strap), A$6,850 (steel bracelet)
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3 watches that prove lug-to-lug measurement is an extremely important metric for case diameter fit Originally introduced at 42mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now has a more comfortable which is a 39mm case. The new variant retains all the attractive design elements of the original, inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and vintage-style two-way bezel.
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The Zulu Spirit Time is a great example of how to create a vintage style watch. However, a major drawback is the size of 42 mm of the original, which is quite strong on the wrist and not suitable for retro style. Longines clearly recognized this problem and quickly responded by introducing a more portable size.
While the size of 39 mm is definitely positive, the thickness of the case of 13.5 mm leaves it too thick in relation to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it can be a hit on the wrist for some. That being said, the reason for the height of the case is important: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original.
However, the Zulu Spirit Time is still an excellent value proposition, starting at $3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is $4,200 The fact that the Zulu Time is a true GMT with independent local time. Timekeeping makes it a standout among affordable dual time zone watches.
While it may be short on movement sophistication compared to the similarly priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it does have the benefit of a wider dial and case option.
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The new Zulu Time models have a reduced case of 39 mm compared to the original 42 mm. Despite the small size, the thickness of the watch remains relatively large, measuring 13.5 mm in height, only 0.4 mm smaller than its larger counterparts.
Aside from the size, the new Zulu Time is pretty much the same thing. u
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